Reloading 101: Reloading for Handguns

This text first appeared on AmmoLand Information on April 19, 2024, and seems right here now with contemporary updates.

In our Reloading 101 sequence, we have now coated fairly a number of matters, from the required gear to the advantages of utilizing a progressive press and loading the favored .223 cartridge. It’s time we talked about an space of reloading that types a kind of sub-set all by itself: reloading for handguns. Many new reloaders have requested me earlier than: Is it the identical as loading for rifles?

Nope. It’s Not The Identical

The essential course of stays unchanged, however handgun loading requires a number of tweaks that bottleneck-cased rifle cartridges don’t. So, how is it completely different?

Earlier than we reply that, let’s make one assumption that issues bullets. Once I seek advice from loading for rifles, I’m speaking about loading jacketed bullets, not lead. Suffice it to say that if you happen to load lead bullets in a rifle cartridge (.45-70, for instance), you’d most likely deal with the case as you’d a case for a revolver. Lead rifle bullets are an exception when loading for rifles. So, let’s assume we’re speaking about loading JHP, FMJ, or JSP bullets in a typical rifle bottleneck caliber reminiscent of .223, .308, or related chambering once I point out loading for rifles.

The primary distinction between reloading for handguns and reloading most rifle calibers is case mouth enlargement, which handgun circumstances require. By means of clarification, right here’s the run-down of typical rifle reloading steps… let’s evaluation them:

Resize and decap the case.
Re-prime the case and drop the powder cost.
Seat and crimp the bullet.

The way you do these steps might differ a bit. You may seat the bullet at one station and crimp at one other, however the course of is identical.

Now, right here’s the drill when reloading for handguns:

Resize and decap the case.
Re-prime the case.
Increase the case mouth and drop the powder cost.
Seat and crimp the bullet.

As within the rifle instance above, you may carry out operations like seating and crimping individually. Then again, you may need the choice of mixing steps. Usually, most atypical rifle die units encompass simply two dies — a resizer/decapper and a bullet seater/crimper.

Handgun units could have an additional case mouth enlargement die, both stand-alone or constructed into the powder measure die. Many handgun presses (turret and progressive) are arrange in order that the powder drop die is connected to the case mouth enlargement die. That saves a station in your press. Single-stage presses normally use all 4 of the dies, for the reason that powder measure is often stand-alone and never connected to the enlargement die. Subsequently, case mouth enlargement have to be carried out as a separate step.

I used my Dillon Precision XL750 press to load .223. For this text, I’ll use my historical Lee turret press. This press as soon as was autoindexing, however the poor outdated factor is drained, so I assist it spin its device head.

Loading For Semi-Autos

First, begin with clear (ideally tumbled) brass. We’ll use the .45ACP for instance.

Station one: resize and decap the case. In case you are not utilizing a carbide sizing die (if not, you want a kind of — no case lube is required), lube the case. Run the case up into the die to resize it and kick the outdated primer out. Re-prime the case on the downstroke.

Station two: Run the case up into the mouth-expanding, powder-dispensing die. It will flare the case mouth and deposit the powder cost into the case.

Station three: Place a bullet within the case mouth and lift the case up into the seating (and/or crimping) die.

Station 4: Crimp the bullet. (This step is non-compulsory. When you seat and crimp the bullet on the similar time on station three, you’ll not want station 4).

That’s it. It’s fairly easy and simply completed as soon as every thing is ready up correctly.

Listed below are a few fast notes regarding handgun dies #1 and #4. You actually need a carbide sizing die (#1) if you happen to don’t have already got one. You’ll save a whole lot of time with a kind of!

Additionally, a separate taper-crimp die (#4) is useful when loading semi-auto rounds. It makes the crimp very adjustable. and permits fine-tuning with out messing up the bullet’s seating depth.

Loading For Revolvers

What about wheelguns? Just about every thing is identical aside from crimping. For roll-crimping revolver cartridges, the #3 seating die ought to work effectively. You possibly can’t see the highest of my turret, however there are 4 dies put in for the .45ACP. If I had been loading a .357 Magnum, there can be solely three dies. Most semi-auto cartridge die units these days will embrace a taper-crimp die, however revolvers don’t want that. A easy “die-#-3” roll crimp will work 99% of the time.

You will have to, nevertheless, flare the case mouth for each kinds of handgun loading.

Why Flare The Case Mouth?

I shoot a whole lot of forged lead bullets. As a matter of truth, I’ve been making my very own bullets for nearly so long as I’ve been reloading. It cuts the associated fee all the way down to virtually nothing per bullet if you happen to can scrounge wheel weights from a tire store.

(This isn’t an article on bullet casting, however I’ll embrace one tip: tire outlets are phasing out lead wheel weights. Don’t attempt to use iron, aluminum, or zinc — no bueno! Lead wheel weights have some tin and antimony in them. Each of these parts make for good forged bullets, extra than simply plain lead. These different three metals is not going to work, belief me!)

There’s a drawback with lead bullets that you simply do not need with these of the jacketed persuasion. Except you develop the case mouth simply sufficient that the lead bullet will sit by itself there, you’ll shave lead from the bullet’s base because it seats. One other potential drawback is that the case mouth might crumple if it’s not expanded. It’s higher to flare it simply sufficient that the bullet will begin and can sit within the case mouth with out assist.

Crimping: Crucial?

Now we get to the precise crimp varieties: roll and taper. However first, why will we even must crimp the bullet? Can’t the case neck rigidity maintain it?

Nope. Not beneath recoil. One of many causes of handgun malfunction is bullets that “leap their crimp,” which means bullets that, beneath recoil, will creep ahead in opposition to their crimp. If this occurs sufficient, the taking pictures stops. A semi-auto can malfunction if the bullets are too far ahead — cartridges might not seat within the chamber or will likely be unable to be fed from the journal. The identical occurs to a revolver, a number of cartridges with unhealthy crimps can persuade it to stop working. I’ve seen bullets protruding far sufficient to cease the cylinder’s rotation. Crimp is significant!

However can an absence of crimp do extra than simply “tie up” a gun? You betcha!

Simply as bullets that come ahead beneath recoil can jam a gun or in any other case trigger it to malfunction, bullets which can be pushed again into their circumstances because of insufficient crimp can have rather more drastic results.

Ka-BOOM!

I had a 1911 as soon as, many moons in the past, that got here aside in my hand in dramatic style. Why? Cartridges within the journal weren’t crimped to spec — actually odd for manufacturing unit ammo — and bullets had been pushed again deeper into their circumstances as a result of recoil bouncing the bullets off the entrance of the journal with every shot. Evidently, one of many  rounds within the magazine had been pushed so deep that the stress it generated couldn’t be contained by the pistol, so… ka-BOOM!

I used to be blessed to not get harm, however the gun needed to make a visit to the mothership for restore. I discovered what had occurred once I examined the few remaining cartridges within the journal and noticed {that a} couple extra had bullets that had been pushed fairly far again into their circumstances. The producer made it proper, by the best way, despite the fact that it wasn’t their fault.

It taught me a lesson on ammo I reloaded… ALWAYS crimp these bullets!

Crimping: Roll or Taper… Which Is Proper?

Right here’s the brief reply. For cartridges that headspace (see beneath) on the case mouth, like semi-auto rounds, you’ll taper crimp. For cartridges that headspace on the case rim, a roll crimp is true. Why?

Taper Crimp

Taper-crimped cartridges will butt up in opposition to the chamber ledge with the case mouth. That can cease the case’s motion into the chamber and provides it one thing to relaxation in opposition to (which, coincidentally, is the definition of headspace). The extractor clips over the case rim, and the case is held tight in opposition to the chamber’s ledge. Most magazine-fed firearms use rimless cartridges and can headspace on the case mouth (straight-wall pistol cartridges) or case shoulder (bottleneck cartridges in rifles and machine weapons). One exception I can consider is the British .303. That rimmed cartridge was utilized in machine weapons galore… I nonetheless don’t know the way they received it to feed!

Taper-crimping is normally carried out as a separate step with a taper-crimp die. You should use your bullet-seating die to taper-crimp, however you are inclined to have extra management over the crimp with a separate die.

Roll Crimp

Revolver cartridges’ ahead motion into the chamber is stopped by their rim. The rim holds the cartridge firmly within the chamber, and that’s what permits the firing pin to ignite the primer. Subsequently, the revolver’s case mouth is a slacker the place doing precise work is worried, in contrast to their rimless semi-auto cousins. Since many revolver cartridges might be of the “elephant-stopper” selection, a really agency roll crimp on the bullet is required to maintain the bullet in its case till it’s time to depart the barrel.

One “oops” to observe for when roll-crimping is overdoing it. When you run an excessive amount of of the case into the seating/crimping die or have that die adjusted too low, you’ll be able to put sufficient of a bulge on the case that forestalls it from coming into the revolver’s chamber.

What To Look For When Reloading For Handguns

There are a few areas to double-check when reloading for handguns. The primary applies to any reloading you do for any kind of gun. It issues the primer. Is the primer seated absolutely?

If not, you may threat a slam-fire in a semi-auto (shock, shock!) or a misfire. In case you are taking pictures a double-action revolver or a semi-auto that has double-strike functionality, merely pull the set off once more. Typically, the primer isn’t seated deep sufficient to be fired the primary time and a second strive lastly will get it going. The revolver will rotate the cylinder and let a brand new cartridge be fired. The double-strike semi-auto will give that very same lazy primer a second “whack” if it wasn’t seated deep sufficient to fireplace the primary time typically a second go units it off. I’ve had that occur a number of occasions.

The second factor to look over and double-check when loading for handguns is the crimp. (I do know, I’ve spent tons of phrases on crimping right here, however it will be important). Your 9mm, .40 S&W, .380, and .45 ACP hundreds will all be taper-crimped so there isn’t a lot to see the place that’s involved except a dial caliper is introduced into motion. A revolver crimp, nevertheless, may be a special story as we mentioned above. It’s simply noticed if it isn’t appropriate.

The “Crimp Check”

So, how do you establish in case your loaded rounds are crimped sufficient? Carry out the “Crimp Check” (that’s what I name it, anyway). No gear is required. Merely seize a cartridge and attempt to push the bullet again into the case in opposition to your reloading or different bench. If the bullet strikes, you return to the drafting board and re-crimp.

If there’s no motion, good! Shoot {a magazine}’s price, checking the remaining rounds within the magazine after every shot. The bullets ought to present no motion, fore OR aft. In case your Mk I Eyeball can’t inform the distinction, seize a caliper as I simply talked about. A few thousandths just isn’t a giant deal, however if you happen to begin noticing extra motion than that, it is advisable re-examine your taper crimp.

A revolver bullet shouldn’t creep beneath stress, both. The roll crimp provides you a extra seen signal of bullet motion for the reason that case mouth is bodily was the crimp groove or cannelure of the bullet.

You don’t must verify each loaded spherical… simply choose a number of at random.

Reloading for Handguns, In The Finish…

Reloading for handguns is straightforward. Bear in mind crimping and case mouth enlargement are necessary steps for handgun rounds. I do know that rifle cartridges are crimped, too. It’s simply that with handguns, your crimp will differ relying on the kind of cartridge you’re loading. Having the right gear available by way of dies, calipers, and many others. helps as effectively.

Make certain your primers are seated to simply beneath flush and your bullets are crimped correctly. When you do these items, you ought to be good to go. Loading for handguns is one enjoyable option to crank out many apply, searching, or competitors rounds. It would additionally likely help you lower your expenses whereas doing so. What’s to not like?

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About Mike Hardesty

With expertise spanning over 45 years, Mike Hardesty has lengthy loved taking pictures and reloading. An inveterate reloader, he casts bullets and reloads for a various array of firearms, every dealt with with long-practiced precision. Dwelling in rural Indiana, his homestead boasts a private 100-yard vary the place he shares his love for weapons to his 4 sons, their wives, and eleven grandchildren. As a acknowledged creator, his writings have been featured in notable platforms like Sniper Nation, Bear Creek Arsenal Weblog, Pew Pew Tactical, TTAG, Dillon Precision’s Blue Press, and Gun Made, revealing his ongoing ardour for firearms on the age of 72.